Dior wasn't the only one with a "New Look"

May 25, 2024

3 min read

For this second week, I went through the self-guided introductions, reading the article links and watching the videos. The prior week, I had already reviewed and gone through the Texas Fashion Collection website to familiarize myself before I met with the team.

The videos included topics on customizing special-size mannequins to accommodate the small or unique sizes and shapes of vintage garments.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_OSYxc_MmLc

The second video was from the Juneau-Douglas City Museum and covered behind-the-scenes object handling. The curator's priority is the safety of the object and the person handling it. Properly securing any loose items on the person is an important start before handling the object. Secondly, choosing the right type of gloves, either cotton latex or nitrile, is also important. Gloves are important, especially when handling objects that could contain harmful particles such as mold or chemicals.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=npKtyU61D_8

With the common question of when to wear gloves, another video from the British Museum discussed the conservators' guide to object handling. The video states that it is up to the conservator to make that decision based on the task and the item they are managing. Metal objects normally require gloves to protect the item from skin oils. The same message is reiterated about protecting the handler from pesticides or poisons found on some objects. Assuring the right size glove, the thickness of the glove and assuring the glove is not torn. Usually, when working with small delegate tasks, tweezers are used, so gloves are not needed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8ch2Ixxf2M

The video I found most interesting was the fourth video, which was an example of object-based research. This is typically the type of research I also do at Dickies. I love digging into the construction of the garment, the signs of wear and even why it was constructed in a certain way, as well as details of the trims used. Also important is the story and history of the time frame in which it came and what was happening culturally during that era.

This particular item in the video is an iconic fashion piece that most designers recognize. I had forgotten that the name of it was part of Dior's “New Look” collection from 1947. What I found particularly interesting is that I know Dickies introduced its now iconic redesigned work shirt and work pants, which was also called the “New Look” in 1957. Even the choice of a script font used to introduce it in the wholesale catalog, in an almost cosmopolitan kind of aesthetic, as opposed to a bolder choice font, makes me question the coincidence. Whether there was a fashionista within the many sewers or designers or board room, or perhaps one of the wives providing the name to the marketing staff, we will never know.

https://youtu.be/K8ch2Ixxf2M?si=nIDIhxoWim57Nzn7

DALLAS MAGAZINE

I really enjoyed reading the article in Dallas magazine. I was excited that it mentioned the 2017 visit from Dickies designers, during which Annette showcased TFC's denim collection.

I tend to take my time while reading articles, often stopping to research things I'm not familiar with. For example, I looked up what happened to Victor Costa, as I recalled interviewing with him in Dallas. It's amazing to reflect on my past experiences in the Dallas fashion scene, including working at the Dallas Apparel Mart.

The article also highlighted the importance of archival appraisal. Annette Becker mentioned turning down pieces of Chanel but accepting items made by someone's mom or grandma because of their unique and interesting construction or textile application, which uniqueness makes that piece just as invaluable.

Becker also discussed Michael Faircloth's collection and emphasized the significance of offering diversity in sizes, rather than just focusing on size 2 model clothing. I hope to explore this topic further during my practicum and raise awareness of diversity within the TFC collection.

https://www.dmagazine.com/publications/d-magazine/2019/november/texas-fashion-collection-unt-dallas-neiman-marcus/